Exploring Korean Cuisine in Boston

Jacqueline Cain

From music and movies to cosmetics and clothing, Korean popular culture is a major global export. But when Marissa Ferola, founder of , sought to connect with her Korean roots, 鈥渢he easiest way to dive in, for me,鈥 she says, 鈥渨as through food.鈥

To celebrate 鈥淗allyu! The Korean Wave鈥 at the 澳门六合彩开奖现场直播, I spoke to Korean Americans in the local food scene about connecting with their cultural cuisine in Boston.

Korean Barbecue

With banchan (side dishes such as marinated cucumbers, pickled radishes, and saut茅ed bean sprouts) on every table, the convivial atmosphere at in Allston 鈥渂rings fond memories鈥 of family meals, says James Choi, founder of , a fast-casual specialist in bibimbap (Korean rice bowls). 鈥淚t鈥檚 part of Korean culture to serve one another and to enjoy socially dining together,鈥 Choi says. Naksan鈥檚 staff grills to order centerpiece meats, such as galbi (marinated, thinly sliced beef short ribs) and pork belly, right at your table.

Soups and Stews

鈥淪oups, stews, and broths are fundamental to Korean cuisine,鈥 says chef KT Cheung, a veteran of Boston fine-dining kitchens who hosts pop-up Korean dinners. She often craves a pork and rice soup called dwaeji gukbap from Allston鈥檚 . With a rich, cloudy broth made of pork bones, 鈥渋t was a commoner鈥檚 food that was accessible and filling,鈥 Cheung explains. 鈥淕ukbap is such a comforting food, and to me Korean food is comfort food.鈥

Seolleongtang is a traditional beef bone soup and the namesake of Allston restaurant 鈥淭hat鈥檚 what they鈥檙e known for, but all of their dishes are really good,鈥 says Heather Kim, founder of mochi donut company . Kim also enjoys the spicy pork neck soup called gamjatang from Allston鈥檚 .

A woman with a black beanie, a cooking apron, and black gloves pulls noodles from a storage container in a kitchen.
KT Cheung prepares a meal for a Lunar New Year pop-up dinner at Kimchipapi Kitchen. 

Soondubu from is a spicy soft tofu soup鈥攁nd another humble pleasure. 鈥淲henever I go home, my mom always prepares me soondubu,鈥 says Choi, who loves the homemade ingredients of Kaju鈥檚 version. It鈥檚 available with a choice of protein鈥擣erola says seafood lovers like herself should go for the version with clams鈥攁nd is served with rice and kimchi on the side.

Hearty, savory kimchi-jjigae鈥攁 spicy stew served over rice鈥斺渆ncapsulates the best of Korean cuisine鈥 to Alex Kim, owner of Allston fusion hot spot  and Brighton caf茅 . His favorite version (besides his mother鈥檚, of course) is from in Cambridge. 鈥淚t鈥檚 rich, packed full of umami from the kimchi, pork, and seafood stock, and is one of my favorite comfort foods.鈥

Joon Son, founder of , grew up in New York City, the East Coast hub of Korean American culture. His family moved to Massachusetts when he was a teenager and his mother took over a now-closed Somerville restaurant called Wuchon House. Son eventually opened his Allston restaurant, explaining, 鈥淚 wanted to create food that I wanted to eat.鈥 Kimchipapi Kitchen is the only place he鈥檒l order budaejjigae, a dish combining processed American ingredients like Spam and stringy cheese in a spicy Korean broth. Other restaurants 鈥渒ind of skimp on the Spam,鈥 Son says. 鈥淭hey鈥檒l use an imitation. It just doesn't hit the same.鈥

When he isn鈥檛 eating stews at his own Allston restaurant, Son goes to for kalbi tang鈥攂eef broth with prime short ribs and scallions. 鈥淚t just reminds me of my mother鈥檚 cooking and the restaurant that we grew up with,鈥 he says.

Street Food and Bar Snacks

Kimbap are seaweed-wrapped rice rolls with various fillings. Tteokbokki are chewy rice sticks tossed in a sweet and spicy sauce. Since he first tried both foods at street food stalls in Korea, Alex Kim has loved ordering them together at in Allston. 鈥淜oreans love to dip the kimbap in the tteokbokki sauce for a hearty yet healthy combo,鈥 he shares.

Anju is the Korean word for food consumed with alcohol. Seoul Soulongtang offers a lesser-known favorite of Heather Kim鈥檚: golbaengi-muchim, a cold appetizer of snails and crunchy vegetables tossed in a spicy sauce and served with thin noodles. 鈥淚t鈥檚 savory and a great accompaniment to soju,鈥 she says.

Fusion

Son and Alex Kim reminisce about getting Chinese fusion delivered in Korea. 鈥淭he driver would pull up on their motorbike, with metal cases in the back or sometimes carried by hand while driving,鈥 Kim recalls. 鈥淵ou鈥檇 just leave the bowls stacked neatly outside and they鈥檇 return later to retrieve them.鈥 Jjajangmyun, a saut茅ed noodle dish with pork and vegetables in a sweet-and-salty black bean sauce, was a favorite order then. Now, Son and Kim get it from Seoul Jangteo and Somerville鈥檚 .

A man wearing a black hat, black t shirt, and several gold chains stands with his tattooed arms crossed in front of a graffiti-style mural that reads "Kimchipapi."
Joon Son, founder of Kimchipapi Kitchen.

Today, Son and Kim both specialize in fusion flavors. Kimchipapi Kitchen brought Korean-style corn dogs to the Boston scene: hot dogs are dipped in a bodacious batter to be fried and coated with crispy sugar or Hot Cheetos. Coreanos, meanwhile, pioneered locally the Los Angeles鈥揵orn fusion of Mexican and Korean cuisines with the likes of bulgogi tacos, spicy pork quesadillas, and kimchi fritas (French fries).

Mochi donuts are American and Japanese, not Korean; but the airy, chewy treat 鈥渋s a familiar texture鈥 to K-food fans, says Heather Kim of Pon de Joy. 鈥淪he makes the best mochi donuts in the city,鈥 says Ferola. 鈥淭hey鈥檙e almost bouncy.鈥 Ferola also appreciates that Pon de Joy鈥攚hich has locations in Allston, Newton Centre, Malden, and soon Andover鈥攐ffers American-style flavors alongside the likes of black sesame and injeolmi, a roasty, nutty Korean rice cake. 鈥淵ou can have the best of both worlds,鈥 Ferola says.

And that鈥檚 important to her. Ferola was born in Incheon before being adopted and raised by a white family on the South Shore of Massachusetts. It was only after moving to Boston at 20 years old that she met more Asian Americans and tasted global cuisines.

With Nine Winters Bakery, her pop-up currently seeking a permanent shop, Ferola also combines Asian ingredients with Western-style baked goods, such as her double chocolate鈥揾ot honey cookies spiked with spicy fermented chili paste. It鈥檚 a concept she developed with her children, now ages six and three, to familiarize them with cultural flavors.

鈥淚 always felt a disconnect when I was growing up,鈥 Ferola says. 鈥淏ut even in exploring Korean culture as an adult, it sometimes feels like, 鈥楢m I not enough?鈥 It can be difficult to feel like you鈥檙e one or the other. But really, I am both. I grew up here, but my Korean heritage is still who I am,鈥 she continues. 鈥淎nd it means something to celebrate both and know that you鈥檙e not one or the other. You鈥檙e this whole third thing.鈥

Author

is a writer whose work appears on Edible Boston, Wine Enthusiast, America鈥檚 Test Kitchen websites and more. She is a former food editor at the Food Lens and Boston magazine.